The Alchemist, January 26, 2010, Volume 3, No. 108
Volume 3, No. 108
Where’s the Chang?
The Woodsman: 2009 Alchy Award Winner Best Ethnic Restaurant
Take a short drive out to Philomath, keep heading north for the end of town, and watch for the sign on the right: The Woodsman. The 2009 winner for Best Ethnic Restaurant and purveyor of a great selection of Thai food. Watch out, it’s a quick turn on the right.
The Woodsman has been a long-time drinking hole in Philomath, and this tavern has the decorations to live up to the name. A massive chainsaw hangs in the middle of the restaurant, more tools of the trade adorn the walls between scattered pictures of loggers, and converted gas lamps light over the tables. The building went through an overhaul in 2003, but it was when new owners added Thai to the menu about three years ago that it became the restaurant it is today.
The Thai menu is actually one of two menus you’ll get at your table. An American menu retains the usual fare of burgers, sandwiches and soups for anyone not looking to spice up their life. The Thai menu has a long list of specialty fish and duck dishes, and a selection of curry, noodle and rice plates. Copies of handwritten additions to the menu are stuck inside to tell you of the latest specials.
The beer selection, ranging from Coors to Dead Guy to Corona in the bottle, is quite reflective of the American menu. Unlike many restaurants that serve ethnic food, there is no imported beer to compliment the meal; no Chang, no Tiger or any other Thai beer. Luckily, a Bridgeport IPA or a cocktail will also soothe the burning sensation in your mouth while you eat.
You can choose your level of spiciness but it’s the names that will fool you. A quite spicy green coconut curry over rice did not match the heat of the papaya salad. The shredded papaya is mixed with nuts, bits of cabbage, diced tomatoes and other veggies and spices. Served over sticky rice this salad feels cool to the touch as it hits your tongue, but the heat builds up quickly afterward. The curry contains a mix of broccoli, green pepper, onion, eggplant and crispy tofu, or your choice of meat. Crispy tofu by the way, much to soft to be considered crispy, but is much firmer than soft tofu and of a better consistency to go with the dish.
It’s best if you bring your good conversation to the table with you, as you’ll be taking frequent breaks from eating to cool down. The only diversion beside the décor is the lone television near the bar, and sometimes you can hear the wondrous sounds of the food cooking in the kitchen. If you held on to the coloring book and crayons from drawing while you waited for your order, that’s still a good way to pass a few minutes too. This reporter recommends the pirate coloring book.
The Woodsman consists of one large dining room and one exposed outdoor area when in season. The inside is divided in half by a short wall and free-hanging decorated windows to separate the yellow-cream walls of the family side and the wood and shingle of the 21+ side. The tables don’t all match but they are about the same height, and none of it will matter once you have your food in front of you. If you came during a regular dinner hour you may just be glad you got a table at all.
Or course, if you are in a hurry to snack you can order up appetizers from either menu, but saving room for dessert is a better plan. The fried banana dessert comes with coconut ice cream that is nice, cool treat after a spicy dinner, not to mention that this is one of the tastiest forms a banana has ever taken. Even without an appetizer, don’t be surprised if a dessert seems like too much food after the large size of your dinner. You may as well bring your own container with you because you will be taking home leftovers. Plan on taking home an even bigger portion if you want to try a dessert.
If you are looking to watch your expenses, keep in mind that each dinner plate costs around 13 to 15 dollars. Beers, dessert and a reasonable tip puts your total around 50 dollars if it’s dinner for two. The Best Ethnic Award from this publication is well-merited, however. The food tastes great, and you’ll remember it well the second time around when you’re dining on those leftovers.
Once you are out the door you’ll be wishing you had a flashlight as you stumble across the totally dark gravel parking lot trying to avoid the puddles. You will have to get back on the one-way road heading north out of Philomath, but shortly there is a left turn that leads you back to Corvallis.
~Robin Canfield
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